Amsterdam: From a runner’s point of view

Amsterdam is one of the most unique cities I’ve visited. From its diverse population to the unique layout of its streets and alleyways and its excellent public transportation system, the city offers many perspectives, no matter when you visit. I first visited this city 13 years ago with my sister. We were in our early to mid-20s at the time and saw the city from a different lens than I did recently when exploring with my husband.

Since my first visit in 2013, I’ve wanted to return. A unique opportunity presented itself roughly 10 months ago: the Amsterdam Marathon. I saw a brief advertisement for the race on social media. I checked our work and personal calendars (my husband has an alternating day off each week), and the stars seemed to align. I registered for the race and excitedly began planning our trip. Since I had been there before, I referenced my travel journal from my previous trip (I highly recommend keeping a travel journal to document events of your trip but also your thoughts and feelings surrounding the experiences).

Day 1 & 2: We departed on a flight headed to London. Once in London, we had a 2-hour layover before a short, 40-minute flight to Amsterdam. I always prefer direct flights, but the timing did not work for us on this trip because of my husband’s work schedule. Upon arriving in Amsterdam on schedule, we checked into our hotel: The Amsterdam Marriott Hotel (highly recommended if you are a Marriott Bonvoy member): clean property, friendly staff, quiet and spacious rooms. This was our home base for the duration of the trip. After a brief post-red-eye nap (there’s no better nap than one after a red-eye flight – I will die on that hill), we headed out to explore the city. We started wandering through the city’s beautiful streets while looking for a restaurant. We settled on a quaint Italian restaurant near our hotel: Piazzetta Romana. The food was delicious, the restaurant was quiet, and the service was excellent. Perfect for quiet conversation and planning our days ahead!

Day 3: We woke up early and started our journey to Antwerp, Belgium for the day! The night before, I purchased Eurostar tickets for the 9:10 train departing Amsterdam Centraal and arriving in Antwerp around 10:30. If you’re visiting Amsterdam during peak travel season, I’d recommend booking Eurostar tickets well in advance, as seats go quickly. Many people take this train to its final destination, Paris Nord. The Amsterdam tram system was also conveniently located near our hotel. We boarded the tram at Leidseplein and exited the tram at Amsterdam Centraal. From this stop, trams 2, 17, and 24 will all take you to the main train station in Amsterdam (Amsterdam Centraal). To pay for your ride, simply tap your chip-enabled credit card on the entry machine inside the tram. Don’t forget to tap your card again when you exit at your stop.

Once at Amsterdam Centraal, spot your Eurostar train’s departure time and number on the monitors to know which track the train will depart from. Additionally, your train ticket will indicate the coach and seat numbers. Follow the signs or ask a representative where to stand on the platform. Since the trains have numerous cars, identifying your correct car as efficiently as possible helps ensure the train departs on time and avoids unnecessary stress.

We had a relaxing journey from Amsterdam to Antwerp. Upon arrival in Antwerp Centraal, we began navigating our way to the historic center and Grote Markt. On our way, we saw the Cathedral of Our Lady. We ventured along the Scheldt River to the Het Steen. The Het Steen is the oldest building in Antwerp dating back to the 9th century. At the location of the Het Steen, there was a fortified settlement that contained wooden buildings, mud-like walls and a moat. Now, it is a museum for visitors highlighting the timeline of the city’s development.

After visiting Het Steen, we found some of the best Belgian waffles in Belgium at The Waffle Factory. The name may sound like a tourist trap to some, but these waffles were among the best I’ve had in Belgium. We ventured in and out of souvenir shops and took countless photos of the Grote Markt and its famous fountain, which features a statue of Brabo. Brabo is a local legend who threw the hand of Druon Antigoon into the Scheldt River after defeating him. Allegedly, this is where the name Antwerp comes from: “Hand werpen” which means “throwing a hand” in Dutch.

We spent the afternoon buying Belgian chocolate and enjoying a beer on the terrace of Ultimatum. We enjoyed our chocolates and Belgian beer while watching people and birds and taking in the sights. We then started to wander back in the direction of the train station. On the way back, we enjoyed a walk around Stadspark. We saw many people walking their dogs, enjoying the weather, and playing with their children. We saw a skate park where many skaters were enjoying themselves that afternoon. Above the skate park were countless shoes and clothing draped over the power lines in what appeared to be a tradition of the park. After the park, we headed over to the Stadsfeestzaal (means “city party hall”). Beneath the stained-glass roof and along the beautiful hallways are many shops and eateries. The building itself is what drew my attention, not the shopping itself.

After thoroughly exhausting our legs for the day, we boarded the 16:30 train back to Amsterdam. Our journey back was smooth and relaxing. We even snuck in cat nap before disembarking from the train in Amsterdam around 18:30. Despite our long day, we were eager for a night out on the town! We ate at what I believe is one of the best Greek restaurants in Amsterdam: Black Olive. After an incredible dinner, we found our way to Susie’s Saloon where we had a friendly game of pool. This was one of my favorite days of the trip! We saw so many things, had so many positive experiences, and felt so much incredible energy that we didn’t want the day to end!

Day 4: We woke up early for a 2-mile shake-out run before our 10 a.m. timed entry to the Van Gogh Museum. We spent roughly 2–3 hours in the museum. It was well done, well thought out and really informative. They did a great job of honoring the life and works of Vincent Van Gogh. I highly recommend for art and/or Van Gogh lovers out there!

After the museum, we began our trek across the city to the convention center, also known as “RAI Amsterdam.” Here, I picked up all of my marathon essentials: bib, t-shirt, and a souvenir sweatshirt. We quickly navigated the busy expo center so we could hurry back to the hotel, drop off all my swag before our 3:00 p.m. reservation at the Anne Frank House. We accomplished all of that just in time! The Anne Frank House has been completely reimagined since my first visit in 2013. Now, there is a museum that describes Anne Frank’s story in a way to educate the public and honor her life. Before the new, modern museum was built, visitors simply entered her small living quarters from the street, read the information placards, and exited after a brief visit. I really enjoyed the upgrades to the exhibit. If it’s been a while since your last visit to the Anne Frank House, it is definitely worth your time, money and energy!

Side note: if you are planning a visit to the Anne Frank House and Van Gogh Museum, please refer to their official websites for ticketing availability and pricing. Be sure to get your tickets in advance!

Our day ended with a quick dinner not far from our hotel as the weather became quite rainy as the day progressed. We had dinner at the Heineken Hoek Grand Café. The atmosphere was very nice and relaxing. The food was not my favorite, but we still had a great time!

Day 5: Early wake-up for a 1 mile shake out run before we set out on our next adventure! After spending some time researching the train system outside of the city of Amsterdam, I found an easy route to visit an old friend and former co-worker who recently moved to the Netherlands. We met in a town approximately 1.5 hours one way by train from the city center. She took us around town, showed us the beauty of her new home, and then we spent a glorious day laughing and catching up. It is truly incredible to see people in their element and so happy. I was grateful we made the journey to visit her; it filled my heart! After returning to the city, we enjoyed a relaxing dinner at Ristorante Papa Carlo’s. We made reservations for this restaurant weeks prior as it was the night before the full and half marathon and we knew the city would be packed. Sure enough, after we settled down in the restaurant, many patrons were turned away if they did not have reservations. We were grateful to enjoy a delicious, runner-friendly meal the night before the marathon.

It’s funny how runners have their own pre-run rituals especially when it comes to food and eating habits. I became fully aware of my unique habits on this trip. I purchased a Celsius energy drink in the Philadelphia airport, after transitioning through security, as this is an essential pre-run drink for me and I was worried this wouldn’t be available abroad. Then, we visited a grocery store on two separate occasions to purchase two sports drinks (similar to Propel), peanut butter, bread (only option – there were no bagels), and a banana. I ate the food and drank the Celsius before the race, then drank the two sports drinks throughout the marathon.

Day 6: MARATHON DAY! I woke up around 6:00 to fuel and stretch before heading to the start line. We took the metro line from Vijzelgracht to Zuid. Once arriving in Zuid, we walked for 25 minutes to the start line. Once I was settled in my corral, my husband took the metro back to the hotel and planned to meet me at the finish line. My 11th marathon was a success despite pretty consistent rain for the duration of the event. I felt great for most of the race and had one of my strongest finishes. I enjoyed every second of the race. The fan support was present throughout the entire course. I felt so much energy from that crowd. Their dedication and support were so infectious. I cannot thank them enough for spending their precious time cheering on runners in the rain. Out of all of the marathons I’ve run, this one was my favorite! The organization and crowd control were also excellent. I had no trouble meeting up with my husband, changing into dry clothes, and exiting as quickly as possible. Even taking the metro from Zuid back to Vijzelgracht was incredible: no lines and we were able to board a train waiting at the station. Following the race, we had an American moment and gave in to the temptation to visit the Hard Rock Café that had surprisingly good espresso martinis. We relaxed at the hotel and I took the best shower I’ve ever had. We went to a late dinner near our hotel (my legs were dead by this point) at Ristorante Amarone. This was my favorite Italian restaurant in the city! We ended our night after dinner; I was still basking in my post-marathon glory, but the fatigue was catching up with me.

Day 7: The day after the marathon was a slow one. We had nothing officially planned for this day. We slept in and mainly wandered the city. We had brunch at Café 1981: delicious, protein-filled omelets and tasty coffee. We continued wandering after brunch to help ease my sore legs (which I think it did!). We found ourselves at a bakery that had the most delicious Stroopwafel. The bakery was called Hans Egstorf, located on Leidsestraat. A stroopwafel is a thin, round Dutch waffle cookie. It has two dough layers and in between each layer is a caramel syrup filling. Stroopwafels are generally eaten after sitting on top of hot coffee or tea for 1-2 minutes. The stroopwafels we tried were larger with toppings (definitely a tourist trap but worth every minute of it!).

As the temperature started to rise, we decided that a canal cruise would be a great way to enjoy part of the afternoon. I highly recommend taking a canal cruise during your visit to Amsterdam! No need to book tickets in advance – we were able to purchase tickets that day and get right on the boat! We saw the city from a completely different perspective. You also appreciated the building architecture and learned important facts about the city’s history. Following our relaxing day in the city, we decided to head back to the Black Olive for one final taste of the excellent Greek cuisine we loved so much. We had a beautiful night out, which unfortunately had to end early because we had an early wake-up call for our flight back to the USA.

We left Amsterdam with full hearts, smiles on our faces and energy in our souls. The Dutch were more welcoming than we could have ever expected. Their support for the running community was felt all week. I am grateful for the opportunity to run the Amsterdam Marathon, explore one of the most beautiful cities in Europe, and experience the support of the spectators along the race route. What a busy week but one of the best weeks I’ve had in a long time! Thank you, Amsterdam! I can’t wait to see you again!

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